Whirlpool... Probably the worst Water heater ever made......
1. Their AIR INTAKE screen is too small, and over time it clogs up with lint, dust , and hair..
You must somehow clean the lint off from the bottom of the unit every 3 months or it will not get enough air to operate correctly....The air intake screen is TOO SMALL..
2. you cannot buy parts that will fix this "built in design flaw" once and for all.
3. It sucks up lint like a vacuum sweeper, and then gets starved for air.., install Whirlpool in a dusty, linty laundry room and it will certainly fail.
4. Their new improved 2010 Honeywell thermostat design is no improvement at all , it overheats and burns out too. They have actually made the original problem much worse....imho
5. Read this link for more info on this awful brand......
Imho, tampering or "jerry-rigging" this unit to make it work is a Liability and Safety hazard and should not be done . I feel it is very unsafe for financially strapped home-owners to have gas valves and gas burners mailed to them,, and then expect them to repair the heater themselves.
6.. look at the lint sucked up into the bottom of the air screen on these Whirlpool heaters
it is impossible to clean under this unit like they expect you to do
You can install new repair parts over and over , but it cannot repair this "factory design flaw".
Your warranty is void if you don't clean your
"lint filter" every 3 months..http://www.my3cents.com/showReview.cgi?id=14643
I am now giving warning to all others about the poor customer service from American Water Heater. I called Michelle from American Water Heater and explained about the problem below. She quickly told me that the warranty is non-transferable to the new home owner (me). In addition, she said even if I were the original purchaser of the 2 year old water heater, he warranty would be voided, as I didn't clean the lint screen every 3 months.
To any person with common sense,
this water heater simply needs to be re-designed from scratch...
Folks, this is not Quantum Physics, its just a water heater...
and it should not take a genius to figure this out .
Just design something similar to Bradford White
This incompetence is an example of Nepotism at its very worst and everyone involved should be fired, including sons son-in laws, daughters, wives, cousins , and all the idiots in top management .
This company needs to clean house to finally fix this disaster.
Its not funny if you are someone stuck with this awful brand.
Look at this site, their are over 1500 complaints.
IMHO this brand should be pulled off the market and
every last unit should be re-placed , not rebuilt over and over....
Here is an old pressure relief valve on a very old heater... This should have been changed out years ago...
The heating of water in your water heater causes calcium carbonate to precipitate out and settle to the bottom of the tank. Steam bubbles form under the sediment when the burners come on causing popping and other noises as the bubbles escape from under the sediment.
Sediment buildup depends upon what kind of water you have. In some areas there is virtually no sediment and in other areas sediment buildup can be significant. Regular flushing of your hot water heater helps prevent sediment build up.
Not producing enough hot water
Check for a broken dip tube, wrong setting on a thermostat, a defective thermostat, burned out heating elements (electric), or a heavy build up of sediment.
The dip tube is a long slender tube that fits down into the water heater inlet, and usually has a small hole about 6 inches from the top. The dip tube directs the incoming cold liquid down to the bottom of the tank. If the dip tube is broken, the incoming cold liquid can mix with the out going hot liquid and cause it to seem as though you are running out.
Noise coming from gas models can often be caused by the sediment build up in the bottom of the tank. Steam bubbles form under the sediment. The thumping and popping noises are created by the bubbles escaping from under the sediment.
Sizzling noises can be caused by condensation dripping onto the hot burner.
When water is heated it expands. If the inlet is not blocked by a check valve, pressure reducing valve, or other device, the increase in volume simply travels back into the source. If the inlet is blocked, this increase in volume will cause an increase in pressure, sometimes to dangerous levels.
The T&P (Temperature-pressure) valve relieves this pressure by discharging some liquid. A thermal expansion tank can be installed in the line that will absorb the increase in volume, preventing the relief valve from discharging unnecessarily.
T&P valves are strictly an emergency measure and should be replaced every 2 years. At 180 degrees , the temperature that the T&P valve opens, damage can occur to your system and you may have voided the warranty on your water heater.
The improper installation of backflow preventers can block the thermal expansion leading to operation of the T&P Valve.
When water is traveling in the pipes it has kinetic energy (energy of motion). When a valve shuts off suddenly a shock wave results.
Hammer most often occurs when a valve shuts off suddenly. Commercial arrestors are available to combat this problem. They consist of a small air bladder within a cylinder plumbed to the piping system near the valve causing the problem. Some hardware stores carry them.
Sometimes if the piping is sagging then supporting the pipe solves the problem.
Water contains dissolved oxygen and other gases. When it's heated it has less ability to hold these gases and when the pressure is lowered as the liquid comes out of the tap these gasses can form tiny bubbles giving the liquid a milky appearance. Letting it stand for a few minutes will allow these bubbles to rise out of the liquid and it resumes its clear appearance.
If you live in an earthquake prone area then be sure to strap the tank to the wall to prevent damage and possible injury during an earthquake.